With America’s (and my own) love affair with Chip and Joanna Gaines, has come a deep love and desire for “shiplap.” This subtle and classic wall plank texture adds charming character to lifeless sheetrock walls, giving any space a “modern farmhouse” appeal that so many of us, including myself, adore. While these treasures may be lurking beneath the walls of older homes, most often, it is a look that has to be recreated through new materials. The problem with this? The original tongue-and-groove shiplap materials are EXPENSIVE to buy. If y’all haven’t figured it out by now, around this household, we do projects on a budget. So, with a vision in mind, and a motivation to save money, we researched, tested and LOVED a faux shiplap treatment created with underlayment… so much so, that we have done four different spaces in our home with this method (and currently in a project that we’ve been working on…stay tuned!), and I’m contemplating doing more (sorry, Braden). The best part about this? You can create a beautiful space without breaking the bank.
- You’ll need to measure the wall(s) that you’re wanting to apply the shiplap to and calculate the square footage.
- Once you know how many square feet you have, you’ll better be able to estimate how many sheets of underlayment you’ll need. The 4×8 sheets can be found at Home Depot, in the lumber and composites section, and they are $13.98 a piece. (I recommend getting one board extra to account for those “whoops” moments…I tend to have a lot of those.)
- Take my advice… Don’t try to take these boards home and rip them down yourself. We did this, and it took FOREVER. Home Depot has a saw the size of Texas in the back of the store, and if you ask them nicely, and say, “pretty please” a couple of times, they will rip all of your boards down for you, and it takes, at most, 10 minutes. Traditional shiplap runs are 6 inches wide, but if you want wider planks, 8 inches will be perfect. (All of mine are 6 inches for reference).
- After the boards are cut, the edges are a bit rough, so you’ll want to quickly sand these down a bit. Once the planks are hung, you can’t really notice the roughness, plus it adds character…so I just hit the high spots, and call it a day.
- It’s almost time to start hanging these gems! Before you get too far ahead of yourself though, you need to mark the studs on the walls that you intend to hang the underlayment on. When you nail the boards in, it’s important to nail straight into the studs to prevent the boards from becoming insecure or potentially unattached.
- Start from the top, then work your way to the bottom. Measure from wall to wall to know how long you’ll need to make your board. If you have to use two boards, be sure that on the next row, you reverse the order of the long and shorter boards. For example, if the top row is a longer board on the left, then a shorter board on the right, for the second row, start with the longer, full-run board on the right and a shorter board on the left. This creates a seamless look.
*Tip* If you are using the shiplap in an area with a lot of moisture like a bathroom or laundry room, it is never a bad idea to apply an adhesive to the back of the board prior to hanging as an extra layer of caution.
7. Once all boards are cut and hung, it is time to paint! I tend to have more of a farmhouse, traditional style, so I chose to paint all of the shiplap white for a classic, timeless feel; however, if you’re thinking something that’s dramatic, bold or makes a statement, black shiplap also looks amazing. Paint it whatever color brings YOU joy!
That pretty much wraps this how-to faux shiplap project up! Beautiful and inexpensive is my love language, and if it’s yours too, try it for yourself, and show us your space!